Ribbon Embroidery
By Adeline Panamaroff
Adeline, a freelance writer/proofreader, located in Edmonton, Alberta can be contacted at www.adelinepanamaroff.com for writing and marketing requests.
History: Ribbon embroidery is a relatively new technique, only officially being around for about 300 years. It is very likely that any formally established methods of working with ribbon and thread to make embroidery designs dates back further than that. Ribbons, manufactured for that use only, are also a relatively new product, with only a few hundred years of history. Before fibers, mostly silk, were spun into the narrow strips that we know as ribbons, strips of old cloth were simply torn into the lengths needed for tying back hair, or for use in course weaving for mats and rugs. This use of reused strips of old cloth was likely common worldwide, wherever cloth was woven, even in ancient Greece and Japan.
Narrow strips of silk started to be manufactured for exclusive use as ribbons in Italy, and later the technique was shared with French textile producers in the 1600s C.E. As with most new fashion items, the use of silk ribbons remained only within the financial grasp of the wealthy. During the reign of Louis XV, from 1715-1774 C.E. ribbon embroidery started to gain momentum within the French aristocrats. Large and small flower motifs, usually rosettes, were worked to make 3 dimensional embellishments for shoes, edges of capes, parasols, dresses and corsets.
From France, the fascination with ribbon embroidery spread to England during the reign of Queen Victoria (1837-1901 C.E). This is when ribbon embroidery started to be used on women’s hats, quilts, bed curtains and bags. Later the interest in ribbon embroidery came to the shores of the United States.
Silk Ribbon Teacup Pincushion program (2017) | Design by Joan S. / Worked by Judy
Technique: Silk ribbon embroidery uses both thread and ribbon to create three dimensional floral designs on a backing fabric. The ribbon is generally pleated and sewn down to keep petals and other design elements in place, as additional layers are added on top to make full flower shapes. Many common embroidery stitches are also used with ribbons, such as chain stitch, running, whipstitch and couching. Ribbon stitch is one of the only stitches that is unique to this method of embroidery.
A sharp milliner’s needle is usually best for ribbon work because it needs to pass through both the backing fabric and the ribbon, without spitting the ribbon in half. Using backing fabric that can take the weight of large pieces of ribbon work is also important, because the completed piece can be very hefty. Using lightweight gauzy fabric with ribbon embroidery will only tear the backing fabric.
Those who work with ribbon embroidery will find that the number of stitches needed to cover a design are much smaller than those where thread, floss or wool are used. This is one of the appeals of ribbon work. Progress is seen in the development of the design much more quickly than with other forms of stitching. A whole piece can be worked in a single day or two. The overall shine of silk ribbons is also what can attract people to this unique embroidery technique.
Silk Ribbon Embroidery | Blue Bird (2010) designed & worked by Catherine C.
Innovation: Today there are many books and supplies marketed toward ribbon embroidery. Classic flower designs are still popular. New methods are being invented as well. Surface weaving the ribbon to create a two-tone contrast, or twisting the ribbon as it is sewn down to the backing fabric can create interesting textures.
Use of other types of ribbon are also being adopted. Synthetic fibers, ribbons with wire, paper ribbons, seed beads and other thread types are combined with ribbons to make a multimedia embroidery experience.
Nowadays, ribbon embroidery can be seen on wedding dresses, hand bags, and other small items, as well as quilts, curtains, and cushions. An interest in its use as an adornment for clothing has taken hold in India. Used as an edging in tunic style tops has been a fashion trend there.
References and Further Reading:
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