Blackwork
BY ADELINE PANAMAROFF
“Blackwork Contemplation Cat” Design by Tanja Berlin / Stitched by Stephanie B.
“Blackwork Elephant” Design by Tanja Berlin / Stitched by Paula B
History: Evidence, in the form of surviving portraits, shows that the embroidery technique blackwork probably originated from northern Africa. This method of stitching was carried by the Moors into Spain when they conquered the southern regions of that realm around 711 CE. During this time, monochrome thread colors were worked on natural toned linens.
By the late 1400s, blackwork had become popular among the highborn. It was mainly stitched in black on a white background fabric, on cotton or linen. Though highlights of gold or silver were used too.
Catherine of Aragon is famously the one who brought blackwork to England when she married Prince Arthur in 1501 CE. Once there, blackwork became known as Spanish work, due to Catherine’s birthplace.
In England, this technique became very popular because of its lace-like appearance. Actual lace, during this time was very expensive, due to a national tax on this luxury item. So blackwork became the means for the well-to-do to adorned the cuffs, necklines, ruffs, hankies and other edgings of their clothing. The term Spanish work remained in use till Catherine divorced her 2nd husband, Henry VIII, in 1533 CE. After this time, it came to be called blackwork.
The popularity of blackwork continued well in Elizabeth I’s reign. She aided in making this stitching method accessible by having patterns printed for mass consumption. Also, with the printing press, wood block prints of nature drawing, such as flowers and animals, became a great source of inspiration for new blackwork designs.
After Elizabeth’s time on the throne, the use of blackwork dwindled and it never penetrated into North American textile culture. It has enjoyed a small revival in needle guild and historical textile circles.
Technique: Blackwork is a counted thread method, worked over an even weave fabric. Common choices include cotton, linen, and Aida cloth. If an uneven weave fabric needs to be used, the use of waste canvas over top the backing material would be useful.
While the majority of blackwork is done with black threads over white fabric, other single colors can be used, usually green, red or blue, with a few other colors used sparingly as highlights. Single threads are recommended for stitching, though double threads can be used as well. Traditionally silk or wool threads were used, though today cotton embroidery floss or perle cotton can be used also.
The most common stitch used for blackwork pieces is the double running stitch or Holbein stitch which are used to outline the design, then filled in with other stitches such as stem, chain or split stitch.
The beauty of blackwork is that the reverse side of the piece being worked is exactly the same as the front. Common motifs are geometric patterns of flowers, animals, and other ideas taken from nature.
Innovation: This embroidery style has not undergone too much change over the centuries. The biggest change that has occurred is the use of more color in the traditionally one-color scheme, and the use of Aida cloth makes this a more accessible textile art for those who want to work on a larger scale. Today blackwork is often used in framed works of art or incorporated in quilts, and much less as adornments for clothing.
References and further reading:
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